BT XI - 2015

BT xi - The other persons viewpoint

Hi Guys
Continental breakaway team have returned today after an exciting approx 4000 miles or so.  To summarise:
The "starvation tour"
French hotel restaurant excuses included: "yes we have a restaurant but we are full; yes we have a restaurant but we are closed for the annual festival" (same excuse for bar - a sober evening ensued); after careful pre-checking by Graeme of a German hotel that there was a restaurant nearby we discovered they had closed (for the season?) a cold bike ride to next town followed. And we will not mention the +one hour out of doors in dropping temperatures wait for a fast food Pizza in Millou.
Graeme attuned me to approx 230+ miles of hard riding each day so a good breakfast was followed by about 8/9 hours of bum breaking curve bending, sight seeing action followed by dinner if lucky.
Weather was variable - temp range -1 deg C to + 28 deg C.  the -1C included snow and a bovinely stupid quodropod who would not move out of my way on the Navio Pass (snow about 3 inches deep at this point).  When I tried to move bike to a different tyre track (animal was standing chewing cud 2 feet in front of me) dropped bike in ice and landed under cow which them moved!!!! No serious damage.
Bikes were serviced before trip including new brake pads.  My brakes felt "off" at an early stage and Graeme's followed.  It turns out we had a duff batch of pads via Border Bikes - warranty claim in hand.  Riding across Czech Republic without brakes was fun (Graeme's brakes lasted till Holland - he limped from there to Duns - though not appreciably slower!!!!).  Triumph dealer in Leipzig is a hero for replacing my pads and brake fluid without an appointment. 
On the further up side:
Great roads - N152 bewteen Spain and France - 80 miles of bends without straights (best road in the World in my opinion) and lots not far behind for enjoyment: The Bowling Hotel in Millou - manager remembered us from previous trip and bought us drinks - roads in area a joy to ride particularly as weather perfect.
Hotel in Italy - "sorry we have no beer but we have this - what is it? (cannot remember what they answered but - 28 % proof - RESULT.)  This followed by dinner with wine included for 10 Euros each! 
Czech Republic - great roads and scenery (too straight for Graeme I think).  Excellent outdoor dinner including 6 beers between us and lots of beef - 20 Euros makes us forgive hotel with locked reception and long wait for receptionist to arrive after her "siesta".
All in all a great trip. My joy in biking has been rejuvenated.
Lucky John

 

 

BT xi - Day 15

Day 15 or +1
A safe decant from the ferry and the eco setting loaded into the gps, we set off for home, via our mechanic in the borders.
An examination of John's pads and the removal and inspection of mine, a call to the suppliers resulted in an admission by them that there was a faulty batch.  (But they weren't going to tell anyone, obviously).    A warranty claim has been made and both of us should be getting new discs and pads in the near future.
The final few miles home were conducted also in eco mode.
Post script.  3 hours after getting home, I am at a friend's house awaiting the rac to arrive as the car has broken down........ (silent scream)    Roll on WAW iii, BR whatever, and most importantly Barbietours 12..........
to be continued...(maybe)

 

 

BT xi - Day 14

Day 14
The last day of the trip but a day marking the 100th day of Barbietours in mainland Europe and also 20,000 miles covered in the 11 trips to date.
After a relaxed (couple of) crispy bacon croissants it was time to had to the ferry.  We had time to burn do we took the very small country roads and thankfully the severe weather forecast stayed away and we had a very nice morning ride.
It was my turn today for the brake problems.  From a slight judder when stopping it became a major shudder during any braking.  Very similar to John's symptoms leading to the suspicion of a faulty batch.
After a horrible braking effort for traffic lights we decided to head straight for the boat.
I enjoyed the ergonomic layout of the shower on the ferry.  The soap was attached to the wall over the sink and well away from the shower resulting on a very wet wc, floor and compartment. Muppets !!
We are currently looking for a corner without piped music to enjoy our crap overpriced beer.  Don't know what we will do about supper but at the 'budget' Little Italy, i refuse to pay €18 for a pizza.
I wonder of cows feel this this on their way to the abattoir !

 

 

BT xi - photos for mad dog

 

 

BT xi - Day 13 The long march homeward.

Day 13
The last full day riding day was dedicated to mile munching, mostly on the autobahn.  There was a minor detour to Quedlinbourg and a slightly longer one (due to road closures and detours) through Hameln, just to ease the monotony of the motorway.
The weather got progressive colder and wetter as the day went on with a cheeky little side wind to keep us on our toes.  This made passing any truck (very) interesting.  Only one truck was blown over though.
We were very cold and sore when we arrived at the best shower of the trip.
Tomorrow off to the ferry. Heavy hearts and pissing rain forecast, but relieved arses.

 

 

BT xi - Dinner

Another pig dies to donate it's shoulder to Graeme.  While John had his first schnitzel of the trip having previously dedicated himself to cow killing, be it through slaughter or getting them to laugh themselves to death in the snow.

 

 

BT xi - Day 12

Day 12
Today was an interesting day (another), low cloud and almost constant drizzle made for wet weather (boil in the bag clothes).
The Czech roads were all in good condition, quiet and fairly straight through open countryside (very like English countryside but without hedge rows and housing except in the villages, which all seemed to have their pond and flats.  All the buildings though are brightly colored which is a pleasure to see.
It was fortunate that the roads were straight because John's brake problems got significantly worse! As a result we decided to abandon any hope of winding roads in favour of a route that required the least braking effort.
Technology came to our aid, not WiFi this time but Wifey.   Yes i resorted to the Haddington back up service and called gill, on the go, and she located a Triumph dealer in Leipzig and texted us the address.  Our GPS did the rest.
The verdict was that, not only were (all 6) John's brake pads down to the metal, some were even half way through that !
An hour and a half later, New pads and fluid and a huge thank you to the dealers and with John's wallet considerably lighter (The couldn't take visa or mastercard) we set off for hotel, which in true Lucky John style was less than 5 miles away, although it was in rush hour traffic!
Lovely small business hotel, Clean, dry and with our bookings and all those little extras that we could need. (except bar and restaurant.)
No pictures today, maybe later.

 

 

BT xi -Day 11 photo extras

 

 

BT xi -Day 11

Yippee, internet access again
Day 11
Definitely a day of three halves.  The opening stretch was through the alpine road down a deep gorge. Then through Bertchtesgaden and up the toll road giving outrageous views. Then down and round some Austrian lakes.  Again superbly beautiful, but with it being a Sunday the roads were packed so we settled in to the inevitable and enjoyed the sights.
The next stretch took is on fast straight roads through very open countryside.
With the exception of the road through Passau, which only had a huge cathedral going for it.  This did not stop the local council from ensuring that the road through took all tourists past EVERY, commercial outlet in the place.
Congratulating ourselves on having escaped Germany without encountering an 'umleitung' we hit the Czech Republic. Within 10 miles a bridge was closed and no apparent diversion or advance warning (that we could understand anyway).  Tomtom came to our rescue and we navigated round the blockage, but our problems were only starting!
When we arrived at the hotel, it was closed but there was a number to call, which was unobtainable but a note at reception said they were in the restaurant. The restaurant door bearing a large open sign was locked, so we settled down with our kindles.
When they arrived they tried to a) put us in single rooms at double the price, b) put us on 1 room with only a double bed.  After much pointing at our online booking, we were given a quad room, with no working bed lights, blinds, fully functioning shower, or soap.  But the beds seem comfy.  Oh, yes and surprise of the trip, the restaurant, like most of the city was closed. 
We eventually found a pub and had 2 great meals, 1 pudding and 6 beers for £16, and they took credit cards (as we had no local currency).
Got to be up and breakfasted before the traffic wardens come on duty at 9 tomorrow.
Wildlife report for the day, 1 weasel and 1 orangutan !!!
Addendum,  For interest value, scaffolders in Czech Republic seem to start work at 06.45 (yawn).

 

 

BT xi - Day 10 photo supplement 2

 

 

BT xi - Day 10 photo supplement 1

 

 

BT xi- Day 10 pt1

Day 10
Another day, another country and new speed limits to learn and new road signs and speed cameras to recognise.
After several trying days we have finally managed to arrive at a reasonable time, despite adding a trip to the glacier as an extra.
On reflection, a Saturday was probably a poor choice of day to do the Grossglockner as the traffic was a bit heavier than usual, just meaning that we had to sharpen our overtaking skills.  I have still never seen so many Ferraris (or been held up by as many - what is the collective term for Ferraris,  a Pose ??) Porches or Mercedes.  Though it was good to see that Triumphs were also out in force.  The Grossglockner was, as ever, spectacular and the toll charge an eye watering 24 € each. (Which is almost as much as last night's accommodation).
Today's scenery was stunning from the first to the last and being togged up for the predicted 2°C  We found ourselves well overdressed.
A quick trip through Kitzbuhl and on to our final destination, Ruhpolding, where we passed the training ski jumps and the biathlon stadiums.
A quick walk round town before sitting down to a couple of drinks and some excellent food, although it is a moot point whether the insects or ourselves ate best tonight.  I do wish however that we had been provided with the German menu rather than the Google translated English version (see pics)  for reference that is the Village Well Pan in the foreground and the High Mountain Gondola behind.  We didn't dare try the sulphurised Dirndl-Plate !

 

 

BT supplement

Day 9 - supplement
The typical Italian driver either grossly exceeds the speed limit or drivers well inside it (never at out).  Always tailgates,  not overtaking or leaving you room to slip into, or overtakes on double white lines in tunnels, at speed.

 

 

BT xi - Day 9

Day 9 - The long way round
After breakfast discussions we decided that the fog and slush, although improving would mean that we would chicken out from the Stelvio in favour of some low level passes and some autostrada. That is to say if you call an Italian motorway, 'chickening out'  While some uk motorway driving can be done in a 'brain out' way, not so the Italian model, it requires FULL attention.
The low passes were highly enjoyable and entertaining with some of the best road surfaces we have seen in Italy, not that they had much competition!
Our run took us through the town of Aprika, where the Pentland Hills ski team once took a notable third place in the Italian national team championships despite only having 3 1/2 ski boots, the other half having been eaten by a mountain goat in the night.
The motorway was pure madness done at silly speeds.  To go any slower would certainly result in death!
My closest shave was at the services and not even on the bike!  We were sitting in the car park perched on the crash barrier (see pic) when a car drove into the next bay and the barrier 2 feet away, at speed !!!  A handy ex health and safety inspecter said that it could have caused serious injury, to him, laughing so much.
Things were going well, perhaps too well when we got into a monster stau in Innsbruck (right under the ski jump).  We were stuck for so long that we started running out of fuel and had to divert off the toll motorway into Innsbruck.  The route back on took us a full junction back into the stau.
At one point in the day out trip computers were giving is a tank range of over 300 miles. The stau was so bad that we were indicating only 140 miles for our full tanks.
Instead of the civilised arrival time estimated we didn't get to the hotel until almost 7 only to find that the convenient cafe within short walking range had closed, so it was back on the bikes for the first schnitzel of the trip, but not for John, he had the salad.
Tomorrow the Grossglockner ?

 

 

BT xi - Day 8

Day 8
Despite setting a new Barbietours record of 223 miles in ten hours, without any lunch break or other significant stop.  I was having a very bad (grumpy) day from falling to get fuel from either of our first two petrol stops onwards.
The first 130 miles were constant towns with their 50 kmh limits and roundabouts every 750 meters or less.
Little did i know that was going to be the best of it ! 
The next few miles consisted of our first pass and first open roads, but average speed was not increased due to the exceptionally poor road surfaces.  Lines round corners being decided where there was a surface to ride on. 
Then came the Vivione Pass, which we both decided was the scariest thing we had been over, single track, poor surfaces and hairpins requiring full lock (and the of prayer that we were not going to meet any cars coming the other way)  It made being overtaken in tunnels seem tame by comparison.  Fortunately the way down was better than the way up.
Excellent, 40 miles to go and it starts pissing with rain.  Only the Gavia pass to go !
Half way up and alarm bells should have started ringing.  Cars heading down covered in snow (thought it was feeling a bit brisk).  Only 20 miles to go, press on!  Then we reached the snow line.  The first couple of hairpins covered in snow were scary but we couldn't face the thought of turning round and doing them on the way down.   10 miles to go, at the summit the snow was 3 inches on the road with only a barely any clear tyre tracks to follow.  We stopped at the summit and had a chat with a friendly local who said it should be better from there on in,  500 meters over the plateau then a gentle-ish descent with the snow clearing.  True to his word, this was what happened except for the road hadn't being blocked (still in the snow zone)  by a herd of cows and oncoming vehicles.  The rest of the journey, except for Graeme running low on fuel was relatively uneventful with only the odd herd of goats and a stag to keep us entertained.
Lovely hotel with helpful staff and beer and pizzas from LaTana make the world seem slightly better although we are very concerned about the Stelvio tomorrow as it is currently 1° C and heavy snow is forecast.  But that is for another day.

 

 

Day 8 bonus

Screen shot.  NB. Weather forecast

 

 

BT so - Day 7

Day 7
John was up early, like a demented Duracell Bunny, desperate to get away before the coaches started arriving.  Breakfast, by was of a cup of coffee and a  croissant as confined before an disagreement about the bill.
Lesson from yesterday learned and we left under blue skies with an additional later of clothes on.
The tour took us through wide valleys with huge escarpments , along part of the Route Napoleon, towards the alps which had been nicely air brushed on the distance. The passes through various French and Italian ski resorts.
The transfer into Italy was met with much poorer roads and conditions. I have seen better Armco crash barriers at Daltons scrapyard.  Most were chewed up like old 3d bits.
The ride took us from the French Apple orchards through the cornfields and into vine country, bits the industrial belt on Turin and Milan. That was where we witnessed typical Italian autostrada driving.  It also resulted in the first of our two separations!
With some more typical Italian driving, some from me (eek).  We eventually arrived separately at the hotel, where no English is spoken and they seem to have run out of beer.  But they have poured us a drink, which seems to be 26 proof.  John informs me it's 28 and after a long negotiation we have pertained some 7up.
The evening continued in similar fashion.  There appears to have been some kind of party going on, to which we have been included.  We had a buffet and food kept being brought to our table but no menu was provided or order given.  The food was all excellent but different from other diners.  We have no idea what is going on our why but it is the complete polar opposite of last night.
Viva Italia.
The waiter tried to get John drunk, and succeeded.

 

 

BT so day 6 text

Day 6 - The Legrand Festival
With the sun shining we set off from Millau, stripped and in our summer gear.  This was regretted for the first 2 hours riding in the shade of the gorge and wooded hill sides.  It later warmed up to a sweltering 26 °C.
The roads were much more major with a lot of heavy traffic resulting in 'spirited' overtaking.  (Although there were still some superb bends to contend with.)
The approach to Legrand was through an orchard (which was on the process of being watered) .
The village has a population of about 20 and an annual festival, which had been going for 800 years and is a big deal and it is tomorrow.  So the restaurant (singular) and bar (singular) are closed for the night.  All the while preparing food and drink for tomorrow.
Back to the bikes for a 5 mile ride to the big town for a panini and some carry out patisserie.  John was upset that the Kebab shop wasn't open till later.
Returning to our lodgings the barrier was raised and we rode our bikes through the active boules pitch while being applauded by the players.
Again being refused beer, (if i serve you, the whole village will come and want served !) I am left being reminded of the Monty Python 'Cheese Shop Sketch'
We sit drinking our soft drinks and eating our patisserie as the black rain clouds roll in.

 

 

BT xi Day 6

 

BT xi - Day 5

Day 5
Everything was right this morning, the sun was out as was my jacket liner, the luggage left in the room. The roads were fast and perfect, not a hint of top dressing and the road surfaces were smooth and grippy.  In short, it made you grateful to be alive.  Well unless you happen to be a bike tyre, because then you are in for some serious torture!
Millau is always a special place to ride, the combination of bends and views cannot be beaten, or of our can i would like to be told
The day was let down slightly when we were turned away from the afternoon drink/lunch/comfort stop and sent up the road to a bar where the wc's were out of order (no helpful sign.)  5 minutes wait at a locked for before some helpful workmen let me know.  While we were topping up out full bladders the helpful workmen started opening up the manors under our table.  We left and found a laybye after that.
I also failed to notice anyone pinning the ' Please Kill Me' sign on my leathers as i encountered several SMIDSY moments on the gorge run back to the hotel.
Early home tonight, maybe we should order pizzas now.  Seriously though, eating in at the famous Hotel du Bowling tonight.
Finally some stats, since leaving home we have done over 1500 miles averaging out at over 51mpg and at an average speed of 36 mph (eek).

 

 

BT xi , Day 4

Day 4 - Why a Duck ?
Very slow start today due to the error of selecting especially narrow roads with both top dressing and stealth dressing (like top dressing but without any warning signs).  As a result it took us just under 4 hours to cover the first 100 miles.
Yesterday's road engineers with the nice French Curves were not in evidence until well into the days ride.
Incidentally, you know that you are in France when you can see the hotel urinal at the end of a corridor before you see any toilet signs.
As the day developed the roads turned into fast sweeping bends that seemed to go on forever.
Booking in at our hotel/bowling alley was touched to be remembered (well John was) by the manager and even more to be given complimentary drinks.  (LJ was probably remembered as the idiot that fell in the drainage ditch!)
Unable to face his usual Gizzard Salad, we walked to town (2 miles down a steep hill) and all to wait over an hour to be served pizzas, needless to say, no top was left.
On the weather front, it was stinking hot.

 

 

BT xi - Day 3

Day 3
Sunny skies and dry roads, in short almost perfect conditions to ride 2 of my top five roads of all time.  The initial jaunt through the Campo to Castlejon canyon was fabulous with the biggest decision being whether to RIDE it or watch the scenery, the second decision being how much to watch the oncoming Saturday drivers. 
Some fast sweeping roads followed and i even got a decent ride through the Perves section.  A bit of road i have always previously hated.
The traditional lunch stop for John where he ate his traditional rabbit, this time properly, even using his hands from time to time.
After lunch it was 80 miles of non stop bends and big smiles all round.
Today's wildlife included the usual plus red squirrels (almost John's dinner) and a thing that could have been a dog, our maybe a llama, or perhaps a baby bear ?
Tonight's hotel is perhaps s bit faded but the owner has allowed us to park the bikes in the patio bar, so that is a little treat for Barbie

 

 

BT xi - Day 2

Day 2
Setting off from a sunny Cambo les Bains, we headed towards the huge black cloud bank that was blotting out most of the Pyrenees.
We passed Europe's first (and i presume only) rabbit conservation forest and this stands treatment that the Basques will shoot anything and everything given the chance.
Looking forwards, after 50 miles it was time to stop and don the waterproofs, which were largely unneeded until the last 50 miles.
With a low cloud base, this was not the day to be doing the cols  Aubisque, Tourmalet, Aspin and the Bielsa tunnel.  All of which were done in such thick fog that we navigated by sat nav.  Not to find the next junction, just to find out where the road was.
Never mind gorillas in the mist, today it was sheep, goats, cows, horses and donkeys in the mist. Only pigs were missing, but they will no doubt suffer for our pains tonight.
One of the advantages of moisture laden cloud are that the wetness is two dimensional, it's just there and you ride into it.  It turned much more the dimensional and downright aggressive for the last quarter of the day as it lashed down.  Our weather proofing however mostly held it at bay although heated grips were in use.
After drying off we wandered the market in the citadel of Ainsa, drank and arre tapas while waiting for the Spanish to deem it late enough to start serving proper food.

 

 

Ferry News

I love it when the beer bottles are larger than the wine bottles

 

Day -1

The big drive is almost out of the way.  I was delayed meeting John by electronic communication failure, the gps not talking to the Bluetooth and the phone.  The journey was mostly dry with annoying wet periods. 
Barbie (the real one) suffered catastrophic bad hair day as her hair bands perished.  She arrived at Wetherby looking very wind swept.  Her bunches were restored with cable ties.
While getting into my evening wear, I managed to put a for thorough my trousers, so for all intents and purposes I now have 2 pairs of shorts,  Fortunately I did bring a spare pair of long legged trousers, do the good people of Thatcham were spared.
Tomorrow, a short hop to Portsmouth and then onto Espania.

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