Returning to our bikes in 'the black hole of Calcutta' (Deck 2 of the ferry) is always a real treat, especially when the stay is extended due to a car driver (on the ramp out) still being in his cabin when all the other vehicles have left. This also put us further back in the long immigration queue. All this meant was being released into the Plymouth rush hour. Fortunately, motor bikes can use the bus lanes in Plymouth so it was on to the fast slog of the motorways.
Our overnight stop was near Monmouth. The final 30 miles were in the dark, on country roads. (The first ride in the dark on unknown roads for several years). We kept a reasonable pace, navigating as much by gps as by vision.
A very unhealthy dinner of Hammy Mcbeardface for John and a 'sharing platter' of deep fried goodies for me was accompanied by anti-Scottish comments by those locals watching a World Cup qualifier on TV. I didn't join the conversation but hope a few of them spotted my t-shirt on our departure.
The final journey home was spent 50% on the motorway and was very cold. With only one murder attempt by a car driver (who was very amused by the incident!) We arrived home, frozen and stiff just before dark.
Bikes packed away for future cleaning, the final trip statistics will follow.
Setting off on our last morning in Spain we admired the clouds billowing over the cliff tops, only to head straight there ! Fortunately we only spent a couple of miles in the fog.
We agreed that the scenery today was the most spectacular of the entire trip. We were constantly wanting to stop for pictures.
Spain obviously has similar problems as the UK with regards differing priorities by their 'councils'. We often found that after some superb roads up mountain passes, we would crest the summit (change council) and find ourselves trying to retain our fillings during the descent.
We arrived at Santander in plenty time and checked in at the port then went to buy a picnic, have a drink and some stickies in town.
We started boarding at 7.15 but didn't get in to the cabin until 8.45.
It's going to be a rough crossing !
One question from today's ride remains unanswered - Why did the chicken cross the fecking road ? stupid little cluck !
I should really write these things before beer o' clock.
The day started with one of my favourite rides through the woods north of Burgo de Osma. The parched south was over and we now had autumnal wooded hill sides to ride through, although the red squirrels playing did sometimes distract from noticing cow spoor ( and the inevitable herd of cows on the road).
The further north we rode the more autumnal the colours. Very petty.
I had been looking forward to the ride today through the Basque country, however in the end it disappointed. Latterly the roads were either covered by a carpet of (falling) fresh leaves or cars. The roads here are very nadgerly and/or very busy. Although the area can be beautiful, it is definitely not our favourite region to ride in.
The last section we were accompanied by a couple of local bikers that pestered John but wouldn't pass him. When eventually waved through they failed to get away from us despite cutting all the corners/speeding through towns and us having full luggage.
We are now at our last hotel and enjoying beer.
I waved goodbye to John and set off to Alicante. I arrived outside Pedrosa Motos at 9am. When no-one had arrived by 10 I went to the other dealer and obtained john an acceptable helmet.
To add insult to injury someone else parked their bike beside outs at lunchtime and left their helmet on their bike. It was still there at 8am this morning!
By the time we meet up again we had 2 days of travel to catch up. Even altering or routes meant a lot of straight roads (although we still managed the odd 15 mile GLT)
We arrived in Burgo De Osma at 6.30 after (for me) a 366 mile day fuelled only by 2 coffees and some water.
A pleasant evening was spent watching the street life in the main square.
At the conclusion of day 14, we had to park our bikes on some waste ground. We removed all valuables from the bikes unfortunately John left his helmet beside the bike and only discovered that on the morning. By which time it had gone.
Our lack of any common language with the locals was helped by Gill by way of texts and Google translate.
One booster owner said he thought it had been handed in at a bar, but when the cleaners arrived..... nothing.
We located two bike shops in Albacete (40 miles away) unfortunately neither was open on a Sunday (it would have been a Sunday!) Hence the enforced day of rest.
First thing in the morning I would head to Pedrosa Motos and but a new helmet for John.
Due to unexpected equipment loss, the motorbikes have not moved an inch (centimetre) today and we are still in Alcala del Juscar.
(All fit and healthy though).
The town is beautiful for a visit but I think we exhausted most of its delights last night. Essential language (and moral) support has been received from Gill and we will (hopefully) be back on our revised route tomorrow.
Today was largely one for getting from A to B but started promisingly. After the first twisty sections we settled into long straights with some interesting bends every time we hit a hill/cliff/mountain.
The final miles were through a wind carved canyon with more impressive cliff dwellings (wonder what their house insurance is like).
By now we are used to meeting oncoming cars on tight bends and (usually) watching them swerve when they see us. In 13 European tours, until today, they have always swerved away from us. Today the driver thought that swerving towards me would be the thing to do. Fortunately we managed to miss each other. While checking out what had happened to me in his mirror (something a lot of drivers don't know they have) he almost took John out !
Other than the 'mesa's and canyons the land today was almost totally agricultural, to an extent not previously observed in Spain.
We finished the day, to John's delight with our traditional drive thru a pedestrian precinct to get to our hostel where we were greeted by princess Layla.
We took the higher road along the southern fringe of the Sierra Nevada's, this was a lot twistier and slower than the lower route. Much of the remainder of the day was however 'making progress' roads.
We waved to the cowboy and I turned off into Fort Bravo, but we agreed it would be daft to buy an admittance just for lunch, so we pressed on.
The final 25 miles was regrettably another GLT with the very variable road surfaces keeping our speeds in check.
When leaving home I remembered to pack my Scotoil but neglected to pack the filling tube, so I have been using John's chain oil, which has now run out. A portion of the day was spent looking out for large filling stations. After a couple of failures, we finally tracked down a Repsol station that was able to fill out needs. Or chains are now satisfactorily lubed.
Tonight's touch of luxury is that John and I can have separate bedrooms in our 3 room (and 2 balcony and sit-ooterie) apartment. 😀
1st course -assorted nuts (free) plus beer
2nd course - chicken & ham vol-au-vent, without the pastry (free) & beer
3rd course - pork & chips (free)
4th course - beer & pizza
😀😀😀😀
The day did not start to plan - more rain! So we took our time over our breakfast 2 cups of coffee (seriously that was it, 2 cups of coffee and a dunking biscuit). By the time we were ready to leave patches of blue sky were showing and the road was drying nicely after the first few miles.
The start of the day, the roads were at their best as we snaked along the south of the Sierra Nevada. The crossing over the pass was extraordinary. As we crested the summit we witnessed an Infinity Road (like an Infinity pool but with tarmac rather than water). It was almost impossible to see the edge of the road and the eye was drawn seamlessly over and onto the flat plains 2000 meters below!
Most of the rest of the day was spent on 'making progress' roads, as John christened them (I would have said straight and fast, incl some motorway). What the roads lacked in interest, they more than made up for in scenery. They're were times in the day when I thought we were either in a massive quarry or huge sand dunes. But other times they were breathtaking mountain roads, cultivated plains and occasionally even views of Malaga and the Mediterranean (it was so warm that I considered going the 5 miles to the coast and diving into the sea - in my bike gear) We also passed HUGE wind turbines, pv cell and solar collection farms. On one of our diversions from the main road we passed along huge birch lined (and tree tunnels) road and some occupied cave dwellings. Some of the modern ones looking quite grand with their (reinforcing, I guess) facade walls.
Our lack of breakfast was made up for by the tapas that we were offered for lunch with our Cokes. At € 3.50 for two cokes and two plates of meat (or fish) could someone remind me why leaving the EU is a good idea.
After being assured last night the it hadn't rained in these parts for 5 months, we can verify that the rain in Spain falls mainly in the southern mountains.
We woke up to rain and general panics over getting the rain gear, which was left with the bikes (200 meters away) and how grippy world the wet cobbles out of the village would be ?
We modified our ride last night to omit the visit to the sunshine resorts/nightmares of the South coast and thought further revisions may be required due to the weather. In the event we stuck the original modified plan!
The rain continued well into mid afternoon but with the low clouds being stuck in the bleak mountains and escarpments (which were very impressive) the roads and our crotches remained damp all day. The coefficient of friction twixt tyres and roads was greatly diminished. For a few miles I had been worried about 'rear end movement' in the event I should have been more worried about the car that came round the hairpin sideways, in a 4 wheel drift, straight towards me. Fortunately my exit plans were not required !
During the day we also witnessed a car taken out by a truck, a car that had slid off the road into a deep ditch and a big diesel spill. All in all, a fun day, but too wet to disrobe to take layby photos. Instead you will have to make do with a photo of our bar snacks (much better than a bag of peanuts and included in the price!)
We have now arrived at our only two night stop, so time for washing, clean clothes, and tomorrow, a ride without panniers 😀
